 This group of five islands close to the marine boundary between Burma
and Thailand in Khuraburi has so far been little visited because of its
distance from the coast and the absence of any commercial activity or
permanent population other than Sea Gipsies on the islands, all of which
are a protected area. The shallow channel between the two principal
islands - about two meters at high tide-has one of the most remarkable
panoplies of coral reef life to be found anywhere. Scuba gear is by no
means necessary to get a good look at the reefs, a mere snorkel and mask
is sufficient, making this a perfect destination for those who would
like to have the experience of diving but have no time for a scuba
course.
Accommodations at the National Park are Spartan, but the modest
inconvenience of roughing it will be amply rewarded by the
experience supplied.
 The five islands are
Koh Surin Neua, Koh Surin Tai, Koh Ri, Koh Kai, and Koh Klang. The two large
islands, Surin Nua and Surin Tai (which mean, respectively, north and
south) have ten bays in which coral gardens are found.
 » The best known are:
Ao Mae Yai
The largest, with still waters and peaceful breezes.
Ao Luk
Which is on the southeast shore of Koh Surin Nua. Luk means deep, and
this bay is so deep that the water turns a dark green. In the shallows
of the bay, however, are some impressive corals.
 The Singh (or Lion) tribe of Chao Lay (Sea Gipsies) have a settlement
on Koh Surin Tai. These nomadic sea people continue in this modern age a
very primitive way of life; time, for example, appears to be a vague
concept as none of them knows his own age, nor can count beyond the
digits on his fingers. On the other hand, they are quite skilled in
their own ways, able to hew an ocean-going boat using only the most
basic tools, catch fish by hand, and are famous for their talents as
deep divers without benefit of scuba tanks. On the fifteenth night of
the third lunar month they perform a religious rite similar to the Thai
festival of Loy Krathong, a propitiation ceremony in which small models
of the larger Chao lay craft are set adrift on the waves.
» Travel to the Surin Islands
can be initiated from several different points:
• From Khuraburi Pier, Ban Hin Lad. To reach Ban Hin Lahd, take the
road (located at km. 110 on the Ranong-Takua Pa Highway) which splits
from the main road at Ban Hin Lad School. Travel onward to the pier
about 1 km. After embarking, travel to the islands takes 4-5 hours.
Make a reservation for the boat trip in advance from the National Park
Office Tel : (076) 491477-8, 595068.
• From Thap Lamu Pier in Thai Muang District. Travel time is 4-5
hours.
• From Kaper Pier in Ranong Province, or contact the Janson Tara
Hotel which has boats leaving from Chan Damri Beach for trips to the
Surins.
N.B. One reason why the Surins are still so beautiful is that they
are rather out of the way. There is no regular boat service for
travelers to the islands. Boats leaving from Khuraburi Pier are
suitable for group tours, and cost in the range of 8,000 to 15,000 Baht
to rent, depending on various factors. The situation at Thap Lamu is
similar. It is sometimes possible for individuals to hitch a ride or
pay a reasonable fraction of the rental cost on a boat chartered by a
group. This method is by no means certain and should be an option only
for the adventurous who have time to spare.
Perhaps the best way for individual travelers to visit the Surins is to
join a dive trip out of Phuket that includes the islands on the
itinerary. This typically lasts 4 or 5 days and includes visits to the
Similans, the Richelieu Rocks (regarded by some as the very best dive
site on Thailand's west coast), and Koh Ta Chai, a small island south of
the Surins with notably good diving. Price for such a trip is 8,000
Baht and up, depending on the level of luxury, and includes meals,
accommodations, equipment, and transportation. Contact one of the many
dive shops in Phuket for further details.
» For those wishing to stay on the Surins
basic accommodation are available at a very modest price in the National
Park. For details (and information for individual travelers about
joining a group to the islands) contact the Visitor's Center (076)
491378. Information about weather conditions and current numbers of
visitors can sometimes be obtained from the Park Office located on the
islands by calling (076) 419028-9; phone service to these isolated
islands is, however, problematic.
» Weather conditions can also be investigated by dialing the Weather
Forecasting Service in Bangkok, Tel. (02) 3994566, 2601502
» Weather on the islands is best from November to April.
|
